Saved By My Own Ambivalence

Sometimes, we are saved by our own ambivalence!  There is so much to do and see and eating is often one of the things I struggle with here. Sometimes, I just want to eat on the street, sometimes in a restaurant, and sometimes I need an old friend, like the cafe at the Musee' Rodin on Friday. As well, being solo in a city that screams duo/couple/deux at every cafe along the way makes me pretty ambivalent about restaurant selections, and sometimes, I can wander aimlessly trying to decide, which I had been doing this Sunday for about an hour.

As I strolled through Le Marais, I knew better than to eat at any of the places that surround the Place des Vosges.  Most of them serve pretty ordinary food at prices that are simply not worth it.  I've given them my share of francs, and now Euros, over the years and was determined not to succumb, even though my stomach was rumbling pretty loudly after my trek from the Islands.

Norm

My feet were screaming so I paused briefly to rest in the beautiful Place des Vosges and began to think about in which direction I should head to get some decent food. I remembered that Chez Janou, a wonderful little cafe/bistro that my friend and colleague, Norm Rubenstein had introduced me to when our paths crossed in Paris a few trips ago, was nearby.

For the life of me, I couldn't remember exactly where, nor could I remember the street. Pulling out my handy map of Paris, I began to skim the streets of Le Marais hoping that the name would jump out at me. Voila - the rue de Roger Verlomme - just down the street and around the corner from the Place des Vosges.  Off I went in the hopes that a raucous Saturday night did not mean it would be closed on Sunday, as many restaurants and shops are in Paris.

I turned onto the Rue des Tournelles heading toward the restaurant and hoping to see a chalkboard outside as I came out of the curve that blocked my view. Hurrah!  A chalkboard and people - Chez Janou was open!  Another old friend was there, and I was indeed, saved by my own ambivalence!

Now Chez Janou serves hearty Provencale fare and I was thrilled to find myself once again charmed by this lively cafe. The bartender and waiters played with me unlike many restaurants in Paris that often ignore you if you're a solo diner.

The food was excellent - a beautiful tender lamb shank accompanied by a red/green pepper/potato/cabbage mixture rolled in a cabbage leaf and grilled. I always eat lamb with mint jam or something sweet but moutarde (mustard) was what I was offered and so I tried it - of course, it was perfect!

While enjoying a chocolate tart with raspberries for dessert, the bartender treated me (shhh- don't tell!) to two small shots of ice cold Amande (almond) liquor made in Provence - he seemed determined that I have some fun! And fun it was!  Nothing ambivalent about Chez Janou, and I left feeling happy, satisfied and thrilled that Paris, once again, surprised me!

The Islands ...

I call these 'jo birds' -
they are in my colors -
black, white, red and grey!

Sunday was a day of exploring the two islands that sit in the middle of the Seine - the Ile de la Cite' and the Ile de Ste Louis.  Most people are more familiar with the Ile de la Cite' - it's home to Notre Dame, Ste Chapelle and the Palais du Justice, among others. I love the Sunday morning bird market that accompanies the daily flower market - it is such a mixture of sights and sounds, as birds chirp and cackle, along with the typical haggling over price that often goes on between sellers and buyers.

There are so many different kinds of birds - from loveable budgies to finches and everything in between.  The color combinations are often spectacular - and of course, you can also buy everything and anything you need to house and care for your bird.  In the US, we usually just buy bird food in a bag or box, but not in Paris.

At the bird market, you can buy custom made bird feed, sold from barrels, much like you would buy grain, fruits or other edibles at a street market.  It's amazing the lengths people will go to for their pets and Paris could never be accused of not providing the same "liberte', equalite' et fraternite'" for its furry friends.

While here on the islands, be sure to sit for a while in the Place Dauphine behind the Palais du Justice - perfect for getting away from the crowds and you'll see the island from a different perspective.

As well, walking along the Quai des Orfevres, I noticed the accompanying art piece on the side of the building "Hora fugit stat jus" - Time flies, stand right - as you can guess it was on the side of the Palais du Justice near a massive door marked Correctional Tribunal.

The Ile de Ste Louis is mostly a residential island but it is quaint and charming and even though it is dotted with shops and cafes, it is not very touristy.  It is quite a bit more quiet and mostly filled with locals.  The few visitors are merely passing through on their way to Notre Dame and the Ile de la Cite'.

By the time I finished here, I was starving and so thought I might find a place to rest and eat on the Ile de Ste Louis - but nothing grabbed my interest. I wandered across the Pont Marie and headed into Le Marais - beating the crowds by a few hours. After a week of rain, the day had turned to bright sunshine and surely the best was yet to come.