Monday, October 22, 2012

Saved By My Own Ambivalence

Sometimes, we are saved by our own ambivalence!  There is so much to do and see and eating is often one of the things I struggle with here. Sometimes, I just want to eat on the street, sometimes in a restaurant, and sometimes I need an old friend, like the cafe at the Musee' Rodin on Friday. As well, being solo in a city that screams duo/couple/deux at every cafe along the way makes me pretty ambivalent about restaurant selections, and sometimes, I can wander aimlessly trying to decide, which I had been doing this Sunday for about an hour.

As I strolled through Le Marais, I knew better than to eat at any of the places that surround the Place des Vosges.  Most of them serve pretty ordinary food at prices that are simply not worth it.  I've given them my share of francs, and now Euros, over the years and was determined not to succumb, even though my stomach was rumbling pretty loudly after my trek from the Islands.

Norm
My feet were screaming so I paused briefly to rest in the beautiful Place des Vosges and began to think about in which direction I should head to get some decent food. I remembered that Chez Janou, a wonderful little cafe/bistro that my friend and colleague, Norm Rubenstein had introduced me to when our paths crossed in Paris a few trips ago, was nearby.

For the life of me, I couldn't remember exactly where, nor could I remember the street. Pulling out my handy map of Paris, I began to skim the streets of Le Marais hoping that the name would jump out at me. Voila - the rue de Roger Verlomme - just down the street and around the corner from the Place des Vosges.  Off I went in the hopes that a raucous Saturday night did not mean it would be closed on Sunday, as many restaurants and shops are in Paris.

I turned onto the Rue des Tournelles heading toward the restaurant and hoping to see a chalkboard outside as I came out of the curve that blocked my view. Hurrah!  A chalkboard and people - Chez Janou was open!  Another old friend was there, and I was indeed, saved by my own ambivalence!

Now Chez Janou serves hearty Provencale fare and I was thrilled to find myself once again charmed by this lively cafe. The bartender and waiters played with me unlike many restaurants in Paris that often ignore you if you're a solo diner.

The food was excellent - a beautiful tender lamb shank accompanied by a red/green pepper/potato/cabbage mixture rolled in a cabbage leaf and grilled. I always eat lamb with mint jam or something sweet but moutarde (mustard) was what I was offered and so I tried it - of course, it was perfect!

While enjoying a chocolate tart with raspberries for dessert, the bartender treated me (shhh- don't tell!) to two small shots of ice cold Amande (almond) liquor made in Provence - he seemed determined that I have some fun! And fun it was!  Nothing ambivalent about Chez Janou, and I left feeling happy, satisfied and thrilled that Paris, once again, surprised me!


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