For Those Without Facebook Access ...

In this world so filled with technology, it's hard to imagine that some folks aren't on Facebook, but yes it's true not everyone is there. So for those folks who have tried to view the posts I did on FB, here's a repeat.

From Saturday, 20 October 2012

There's nothing like finding a brief respite in Paris when it's been raining all day long.  The skies have been cloudy and grey today, but after braving the crowd of rue Cler and rue du Bac, I wandered over to my favorite place in Paris for a spot of lunch and some peace: the garden of the Musee' Rodin, not far from the apartment I'm staying in this trip.

Musee' Rodin Gardens

Even in the rain - the gardens are beautiful, and to sit in the cafe, enjoy some warm fresh made soup and salad and gaze across the gardens - to me it is heaven on earth. Once I've done this - Paris at last begins to feel like home to me.

Strolling through the gardens after a pleasant meal and taking time to think like Le Penseur (The Thinker) and view some of Rodin's most exquisite sculptures that dot the garden - there's just nothing else like it. The next time you are in Paris - for just one Euro, you can enjoy this amazing escape from the hustle-bustle that is often Paris!

Walking down
rue St. Dominique, 7e

From Facebook, 20 October 2012

Here's the view down my street as I walk toward the apartment from the Musee' Rodin - you can see what a grey and rainy day it is - but La Tour Eiffel is managing just fine!  Me, too!

What The Well-Dressed Woman Is Wearing In Paris ...

Just about anything. As is common knowledge, Parisian/French women seem to have that "je ne sais quoi" when it comes to dressing. Even their most casual, stay-at-home outfit looks like they just stepped off the runway at Paris Fashion Week. In Paris, one must try hard to out-do the chic, one-of-a-kind look that most French women are able to produce with just a this and a that.

On one of my daily excursions around the city, I was walking down the rue St Honore and was stopped in my tracks by a woman walking towards me. No, she was not some tall, sleek fashion-model type, and not stunningly beautiful, but her outfit was so perfectly eclectic and stylish that it was clear that she knew exactly what to wear to enhance her natural beauty.

With medium auburn hair, straight as a board, she wore mustard-colored pants, pleated at the waist to float over her ample waist and hips, but very narrow at the ankle - giving her a stunning V-shape. She capped these off with a one inch blood red leather belt.

A beautiful loose fitting cream-colored silk shirt combined with a jacket that matched the red belt to a tee framed her upper body. This, of course, was set off by a scarf in matching colors with a bit of black thrown in to enhance the brightness of the colors. She carried a gorgeous black handbag with matching black leather gloves and wore tortoise shell sunglasses, almost the same shade as her hair.

But, the 'piece de resistance' of the entire outfit were her shoes - and these are what made me almost stumble over my own feet staring - her shoes were a shade of muted kelly green, slender pointed toes and a small kitten heel. WOW! So unexpected - but what a look and it suited her so perfectly. Now, mind you, this woman was pretty hefty with serious hips and probably no more than about 5' 5" tall but together the whole outfit looked like a page from Vogue.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to capture a photo of this woman - it all happened in the blink of an eye as two people pass on the street - but her image stuck with me and reminded me how easy it is to add that 'signature' item to make a plain outfit into something spectacular, literally in the blink of an eye.

On the street ...
Photo from
 Style Snooper Dan blog

Now, what is everyone else wearing in Paris? Dare I say it -- skinny jean/pants/tights. It doesn't matter whether you're young, old, tall, short, skinny or have Marilyn Monroe hips (yes, I do these days!) - the skinny pant-look, coupled with boots of any height and any level of heel are it. I saw this in London, too, but no one puts it together quite like the French.

They are so clever, that they have even created a boot sock for calf-high boots that has a little bow at the top with streamers that spill over the top of the boot, adding a playful touch to the whole look. I saw these mostly on 20-somethings but who thinks of these things besides the French???

For those days, when boots aren't a necessity, you'll see ballet flats and heeled pumps of any height, platform or not, round or pointy toes - it's your choice.

They top the skinny pants off with just about any length or type of shirt/top -- from sweaters to tunics, and silk peasant shirts and of course, the ubiquitous scarf, tied dramatically with such flare that even Picasso would be impressed. Finally, they're completing the whole outfit off with divine coats in wool or leather, solids and prints -- usually a three-quarter or bracelet cuff length, and if the weather calls for it, gloves and hats.

In Le Marais

Now, while I'm talking fashion - be on the lookout for The Kooples. Yes, it's about couples/duo/deux, which is a predominant theme in Paris, as noted in one of my earlier posts.

The Kooples are everywhere throughout the city, and they're landing in the US shortly, if they're not already here. This trendy store offers the latest looks and pictures everything in 'couples' settings.

What I also found refreshing in my window-shopping and city strolling is that much of the clothing in Paris and London is still made from real materials - silk, wool, cotton, linen, leather, etc.  While you can certainly find plenty of man-made fabric fashions in Paris and London, it was nice to see beautiful, well-made clothes constructed in fabrics that for most Americans are only memories from their childhoods. The prices run the gamut from top to bottom but it's not impossible to find something reasonably price to add to your wardrobe.

So there you have it - if you're headed to Paris or pretty much anywhere in the UK or Continental Europe, you now know exactly what to wear to be right in step and in style as a well-dressed woman of the world. If skinny pants are not your thing - let me make a final suggestion - bring lots of beautiful, colorful scarves and wear black everywhere! A bientot!

Some Things Are Meant To Be ...

Wall of Gloves
Denise Francelle
rue de Rivoli

As most people know, I have an extensive collection of beautiful scarves, gloves and other accessories, many of which I have found in Paris. For years, I have skipped all the big name stores and designers in Paris to buy my treasures at a tiny boutique on the rue de Rivoli - Denise Francelle.

The current owner, Sandra, is the grand-daughter of the shop's namesake and I have been shopping there since my first trip to Paris, almost 20 years ago. For me, no trip to Paris is complete without a few hours at Denise Francelle.

This trip was no different. I saved this guilty pleasure for the last few days in Paris, and finally decided on my last Monday that I would breeze in and pick out my scarf or gloves for this trip. Except when I arrived mid-afternoon, I couldn't find the shop.

Now, as many times as I've been there, the shop is often hard to find - it is tiny, very tiny - often more than one person in the shop is a crowd - there is almost no room to turn around. Nevertheless, I was baffled as I walked up and down the two blocks where I knew the shop was. After 20 minutes, I gave up - I was hungry, tired and a bit frustrated from walking the 5e all day - I needed to clear my head, fill the tank and rest the dogs, so I headed toward my little home in the 7e.

Inside Moulin de la Vierge
on rue St Dominique.
Photo from the Puff List blog.

After a delightful repast at my favorite patisserie on rue St Dominique, Moulin de la Vierge, I went to the apartment to check on Denise Francelle's address and relax from a hectic day.

All I could find was the same rue de Rivoli location and what appeared to be a manufacturing location in the 15e - yes, Denise Francelle had crafted custom-made leather gloves for decades, which sold for about $70 - a bargain at any time.

Determined to find my friend Sandra and her shop, I headed out again, arriving shortly via Metro at the Concorde stop. Down the street I went, exact address in hand this time, only to find the shop was gone. After asking in the surrounding shops, I discovered that Denise Francelle had closed in the Fall, 2011.

It seemed impossible for I had seen Sandra on my June, 2011 visit to Paris and she had said nothing about moving or closing the store. I headed to the rue St Honore to stroll and drool over the two Goyard shops and to stem the rising sadness I felt at losing Denise Francelle and the friendship I had built over decades with Sandra.

Not to be deterred, I woke up on Tuesday determined to find Sandra or at least to find out what had happened. I called the number listed for what I thought might be the manufacturing facility in the 15e and in my best French said, "Je voudrais a parler, Sandra?" "This is Sandra," came the reply. Oh joy! I had found her. Within minutes, I was out the door and on my way to her new shop on the Place Vendome near the start of the rue de la Paix.

Sandra

As I entered the shop, Sandra came around to embrace me, and once again, I felt at home in Paris. I had found two old friends.

Though the new shop is not the old one, it is indeed a treasure filled with wonderful gloves, hosiery, lingerie (a new addition), the most exquisite hand made parapluies (umbrellas) and tiny silk and lace parasols, walking sticks to die for - though no scarves right now but they will return, as Sandra continues to stock the store.

I spent the next hour or so chatting with Sandra about what had happened and the amount of time it had taken her to move the business from one place to the other and that is when I discovered that some things are meant to be.

The New Shop

If I had come to Paris in the Spring, which is my usual time, I would not have found Sandra. She told me as we talked, that the store had been open only 11 days. That the number I called was indeed the shop number, but the address listing was her personal home address, and that until late Monday afternoon, the phone was not working in the shop.

We both realized what a miracle it was that we were able to reconnect. Since she has changed the name of the shop, it may have taken years to find her but this is one time that clearly it was meant to be! And yes, I did buy the most exquisite and quirky pair of black leather gloves, with raised multi-colored leather dots.

Saved By My Own Ambivalence

Sometimes, we are saved by our own ambivalence!  There is so much to do and see and eating is often one of the things I struggle with here. Sometimes, I just want to eat on the street, sometimes in a restaurant, and sometimes I need an old friend, like the cafe at the Musee' Rodin on Friday. As well, being solo in a city that screams duo/couple/deux at every cafe along the way makes me pretty ambivalent about restaurant selections, and sometimes, I can wander aimlessly trying to decide, which I had been doing this Sunday for about an hour.

As I strolled through Le Marais, I knew better than to eat at any of the places that surround the Place des Vosges.  Most of them serve pretty ordinary food at prices that are simply not worth it.  I've given them my share of francs, and now Euros, over the years and was determined not to succumb, even though my stomach was rumbling pretty loudly after my trek from the Islands.

Norm

My feet were screaming so I paused briefly to rest in the beautiful Place des Vosges and began to think about in which direction I should head to get some decent food. I remembered that Chez Janou, a wonderful little cafe/bistro that my friend and colleague, Norm Rubenstein had introduced me to when our paths crossed in Paris a few trips ago, was nearby.

For the life of me, I couldn't remember exactly where, nor could I remember the street. Pulling out my handy map of Paris, I began to skim the streets of Le Marais hoping that the name would jump out at me. Voila - the rue de Roger Verlomme - just down the street and around the corner from the Place des Vosges.  Off I went in the hopes that a raucous Saturday night did not mean it would be closed on Sunday, as many restaurants and shops are in Paris.

I turned onto the Rue des Tournelles heading toward the restaurant and hoping to see a chalkboard outside as I came out of the curve that blocked my view. Hurrah!  A chalkboard and people - Chez Janou was open!  Another old friend was there, and I was indeed, saved by my own ambivalence!

Now Chez Janou serves hearty Provencale fare and I was thrilled to find myself once again charmed by this lively cafe. The bartender and waiters played with me unlike many restaurants in Paris that often ignore you if you're a solo diner.

The food was excellent - a beautiful tender lamb shank accompanied by a red/green pepper/potato/cabbage mixture rolled in a cabbage leaf and grilled. I always eat lamb with mint jam or something sweet but moutarde (mustard) was what I was offered and so I tried it - of course, it was perfect!

While enjoying a chocolate tart with raspberries for dessert, the bartender treated me (shhh- don't tell!) to two small shots of ice cold Amande (almond) liquor made in Provence - he seemed determined that I have some fun! And fun it was!  Nothing ambivalent about Chez Janou, and I left feeling happy, satisfied and thrilled that Paris, once again, surprised me!

The Islands ...

I call these 'jo birds' -
they are in my colors -
black, white, red and grey!

Sunday was a day of exploring the two islands that sit in the middle of the Seine - the Ile de la Cite' and the Ile de Ste Louis.  Most people are more familiar with the Ile de la Cite' - it's home to Notre Dame, Ste Chapelle and the Palais du Justice, among others. I love the Sunday morning bird market that accompanies the daily flower market - it is such a mixture of sights and sounds, as birds chirp and cackle, along with the typical haggling over price that often goes on between sellers and buyers.

There are so many different kinds of birds - from loveable budgies to finches and everything in between.  The color combinations are often spectacular - and of course, you can also buy everything and anything you need to house and care for your bird.  In the US, we usually just buy bird food in a bag or box, but not in Paris.

At the bird market, you can buy custom made bird feed, sold from barrels, much like you would buy grain, fruits or other edibles at a street market.  It's amazing the lengths people will go to for their pets and Paris could never be accused of not providing the same "liberte', equalite' et fraternite'" for its furry friends.

While here on the islands, be sure to sit for a while in the Place Dauphine behind the Palais du Justice - perfect for getting away from the crowds and you'll see the island from a different perspective.

As well, walking along the Quai des Orfevres, I noticed the accompanying art piece on the side of the building "Hora fugit stat jus" - Time flies, stand right - as you can guess it was on the side of the Palais du Justice near a massive door marked Correctional Tribunal.

The Ile de Ste Louis is mostly a residential island but it is quaint and charming and even though it is dotted with shops and cafes, it is not very touristy.  It is quite a bit more quiet and mostly filled with locals.  The few visitors are merely passing through on their way to Notre Dame and the Ile de la Cite'.

By the time I finished here, I was starving and so thought I might find a place to rest and eat on the Ile de Ste Louis - but nothing grabbed my interest. I wandered across the Pont Marie and headed into Le Marais - beating the crowds by a few hours. After a week of rain, the day had turned to bright sunshine and surely the best was yet to come.